An Irish Traveller community in 1980s Bermondsey

Irish Travellers are an ethnic group whose identity is linked to their nomadic traditions. They’ve been legally recognised in Britain since 2000 and are now protected from discrimination by the Equality Act.

We don’t know the exact origins of Irish Travellers, but their history goes back many centuries. Historically, they were often associated with trades that fit their nomadic lives, like metalworking. Industrialisation caused more Travellers to move from Ireland to Britain in the 20th century. At around the same time, they swapped the horse-drawn, barrel-top wagons they lived and travelled in for caravans.

Nowadays, many Travellers live a settled lifestyle for at least part of the year. Until 1994, councils had a duty to provide accommodation for Travellers and Romani Gypsies, another traditionally nomadic group. Today, urban development and resistance from local residents and authorities means there are far fewer legal sites than are needed. This sometimes forces Travellers onto unsuitable sites.

Census data is imperfect. The 2021 population survey of England and Wales used “Gypsy or Irish Traveller" as an umbrella category, despite Romani Gypsies and Irish, Scottish and New Travellers all being distinct groups. There were 7,470 people who identified this way in 2021, but the true number is likely to be much higher. A 2008 study by the Fordham Institute thinktank estimated there were 17,776 Gypsies and Travellers in London. Other estimates go as high as 30,000.

Irish Travellers, also called Pavee, have their own language, known as Cant or Gammon. Their culture places importance on family, community and their nomadic traditions. They also share the experience of widespread discrimination – including limited access to housing, bullying during education and prejudice from hospitality businesses.

These photos were taken by Lesley Howling. Howling was born in Camberwell, south London, in 1951. She studied art at Leeds Polytechnic and later became a photographer, working freelance and for the BBC.

Bermondsey, where these photos were taken, is part of the borough of Southwark. As of 2025, there were four official Traveller sites in Southwark. In the 2021 census, 157 residents of the borough identified themselves as “Gypsy or Irish Traveller” – about 0.2% of the population. This is likely to be an underestimate.