Cap

A woollen cap from the 16th century. It is made of a fine twill wool fabric. The crown and brim remain, in the same shape as knitted caps in thecollection. This is the single example entirely made of woven fabric. It was probably known as a 'bonnet' at the time, meaning a cap made of cloth not knitting. Caps were worn by men in London's business and working communities in Tudor times. They were designed to be warm and waterproof. A range of styles and qualities were available to suit the taste and pocket of the customer.

The piece was bought by the London Museum in 1924 and no further find details are known. Workman in the early 20th century digging deep foundations for new buildings around the City of London found many pieces of clothing and textiles buried in the earth. Many are in a good state of preservation and may have been lost from wearers’ heads or discarded when they became unfashionable (from around 1570), thrown into the City ditch and cesspits. Unfortunately, because these were not formal archaeological excavations, any strata details or contextual material such as pottery that would help date the caps more closely were lost.

Some caps were trimmed with ribbons to imitate more expensive versions in silk. Wealthy Londoners wore headgear influenced by European fashions, and the bonnets (a cloth cap) from Milan, ornamented with ostrich feather plumes, aglets (metal tags) and brooches, were much in vogue.

TECHNICAL INFORMATION

Cap or bonnet of fine serge, width 11.5 inches. Brim width 2 inches / 54 mm; seams 6 mm, 1/4 inch, napped inside, 2/2 twill, 48 threads per inch. Crown and brim form a round cap or bonnet in twill weave. 6 mm seam turnings. 14 threads per each 1/4 inch. Yarn - Z spun.