Waistcoat, performance costume waistcoat

Brown silk velvet waistcoat trimmed with vertical strips of yellow silk satin ribbon, single breasted; worn as part of a theatrical ensemble by the actor Sir Henry Irving (1838-1905) as the character Mathias in a production of The Bells in the 1870s. This long waistcoat has a high neckline and a cut away hem, centre front fastening with buttons. The waistcoat front is longer than the back piece and has a small standing collar at the front which does not extend around past the shoulder seams. A pair of flap pockets on the hip, either side centre front. The back piece of the waistcoat has a waist belt with buckle and what remains of a second waist belt, higher up the back, which has been partly cut away. Hand stitched on the underside of the remaining waist belt is a label printed with the word ‘No.’ and underneath that, hand written in black ink, the name ‘Henry Irving Esq’. The buckle is marked in relief with the word ‘PARIS’; presumably relating to its place of production.

The waistcoat has been altered at various points and the satin ribbons appear to be a later addition as peach ribbon can be seen beneath most of the yellow ribbons. There are numerous images of Irving wearing this waistcoat, some of which show the waistcoat before it was altered into its present shape.

Irving was one of the leading actors and theatre managers of the Victorian era and was the first actor to receive a knighthood. The play The Bells by Leopold Lewis opened at the Lyceum Theatre in London in 1871, running for 150 performances. The role was to be a turning point in Irving’s career becoming an instant success. Irving was to repeatedly play the role of Mathias throughout his career up until his death in 1905. The image of Irving wearing this distinctive waistcoat was penned by the caricaturist Carlo Pellegrini for Vanity Fair 19 December 1874, and also exists in photographic ephemeral materials.

The Museum of London has a selection of iconic costumes worn by Irving, as well other influential actors of this period; David Garrick, Sir John Martin Harvey, Edmund Kean and Fred Terry to name a few.