Coat

Embroidered grey green shot tabby silk taffeta coat with small collar. Remnants of fan shaped pleats. Deep pocket flaps, small cuffs. Lined with cream coloured plainweave linen in centre back panel; rest in thin cream coloured silk Armhole edges are clean-finished; top of coat front edges have two sets of metal hooks and eyes – original? Significant perspiration stains at underarms – particularly show on lining; staining on inside of standing collar; certain areas have been stiffened, applied between fabric and lining: standing collar; front edges (13.5cm at top tapering to 5cm at the hem); edge of side back seam(?); pockets(?); centre back seams of lining appear to have been sewn, then their seam allowances stitched together to attach the two layers – the two layers are somehow attached, but there are no stitch marks on either coat or lining; other seams of the jacket appear to have been made independently from the lining with backstitch (?), and the lining lapped and whipstitched in a layered fashion; fabric and lining of standing collar are made in two pieces; silk-lined pocket flaps have been applied on top of jacket using whip/slipstitch; pocket bag is made of same linen as centre back lining – also attached with whip/slipstitch; centre back pleats are a separate panel whose joins are concealed inside the pleats and by the lining; the join of the top of the panel is visible, and was slipstitched to the upper jacket; pieces of the embroidery have been made into appliqués and applied on top of this join to help conceal it – is this original or some kind of alteration?