Shawl

Kashmir shawls came to Europe in 1800 and were instantly popular. The 'long shawl' added warmth and beauty to the simple lines and pale colours of women's dress. Genuine Indian shawls took a weaver up to eighteen months to make by hand, creating a pair at a time. With their advanced technical skill of twill-tapestry, fine cashmere and silk weave, and jewel colours, the imports prompted imitation in both the French and British weaving industries. It was soon difficult to tell where a piece was made.

Perhaps the most lasting effect was the introduction into Britain of the distinctive 'boteh' motif (meaning 'flower'). The stylised floral pattern is also called mango or pine cone, but is best known as Paisley after the versions of Kashmiri styles produced in the Scottish town from the 1830s.