Bodice

Bodice (from a dress), 1780-90; fabric English 1770-80.

Construction notes: bodice centre back is in two sections which appear to be backstitched together (both silk and lining layers); there are side back pieces on either side of these, the outer edges of the centre back pieces and the inner edges of the side back pieces have been independently finished with the corresponding lining pieces then stitched together with small back stitches and very small seam allowances; the side seams are lapped and running stitched on the silk with small stitches on the outside and longer ones on the underside, the lining is lapped and whip stitched; the sleeves have been set in and back stitched at the underarm, and are pleated onto a linen shoulder piece at the sleeve head – this is covered by a folded band of silk on the right side; the drawstring casing is made by two rows of running stitches through the silk and lining layers along the neck edge; the front edges of the bodice are finished by turning the raw edges in towards each other and sewing with small back stitches; the armhole edges have been left raw; the sleeve hems are finished by turning the lining out and up over the silk and concealing beneath the box pleated trim – which is tacked down with prick stitches; a small gusset or godet has been inserted at the inner bend of the elbow on the bottom sleeve edges – these are mostly concealed by the ribbon trim; the sleeves are cut in one piece and sewn with lapped and small running/prick stitched seams, the sleeve linings have been treated as one with the silk, there are raw fabric edges inside the sleeves. Alteration Notes: this started out as a mid-century dress; whether it was a sack or mantua is unclear; the current silk shoulder pieces are remnants of robings; the front of the bodice has been pieced along the old robing line so the front edges can meet at centre; the sleeves have been lengthened from slightly above the elbow to slightly below and cupping it – both lining and fabric have been pieced on both sleeves at the same point; there is significant piecing across the bodice back and on the sleeves at the underarm; the skirt is missing; what was once a dress back cut in one (bodice and skirt) has been cut into a completely separate bodice with stitch marks showing where the later incarnation of the skirt was once sewn.