Skirt, petticoat

Two selvedge width pieces of linen joined to form front of a wide skirt. Shape of side-hoops indicated by undecorated areas at top outer edge of each panel which would have been covered by the looped-up overskirt of a mantua. Upper edge turned over and loosely pleated. Bag pocket inserted behind slit cut in right hand panel. Backed with linen and embroidered through both layers with polychrome silks (some twisted together to form soft multi-coloured cords) in long and short, shaded satin, stem and speckling stitches, with French knots, laid and couched work and raised loops. Ground flat-quilted with brown silk in backstitch. Decorated with three exotic, floral plants rising from small mounds and extending almost to upper edge; one worked over central seam, others on either side and beyond them two smaller plants which fit below the undecorated areas. Between plants, large chinoiserie birds of three different types. Ground quilted with pattern of overlapping concentric circles. Plants are placed 14.5 cm above lower edge; fade and stitch marks suggest that this area was decorated with three bands of applied braid. Quilting pattern was worked before centre front seam was made, although embroidered decoration was worked across it. However join is rather clumsy and this, together with other details, suggest that skirt was made domestically. Condition: fair; linen has discoloured and most of black silk has dropped out; some small holes, repairs and stains; two (or three) back panels are missing; present back seam was worked later.