Amarilla

This silk Grecian style costume was made for Pavlova for the role of Amarilla. This costume most likely dates from the 1920 revision of the ballet. The knee length dress is made of washed silk, softly gathered into a wide neckline with a cord around the edge. The loose sleeves are open at the top, torn and ragged. The orange colour deepens towards the waist into burnt orange, all dyed specifically for the costume. On top of this are attached three horizontal bands of black velvet with stripes made of alternating wide and narrow metal thread braid. The bands clasp together at the back opening but give the illusion of being wrapped around the body. Under the right breast is a roundel of beads, sequins and braids. Attached at either side is a string of beads, black on the right and gold and russet on the left, each of which hang loosely from the shoulder point.

The skirt is made of three layers of silk. The outer one is dyed rose, violet and russet, randomly, and is torn vertically around its width. There are numerous darns and repairs. The next skirt is purple-grey silk crepe georgette, fragile, splitting, repaired and moth-eaten around the hem, with purple and blue dye in places. A pair of silk knickers, no longer stitched together, form the final layer. The whole dress is mounted on a foundation, white cotton net on the torso now stained orange from sweat's effect on the dye. Some net shows at the neckline and is stained with greasepaint. The lower foundation is briefs of white cotton that fastened between the legs. All seams are machine sewn, with hand stitching on the embellishments.

Amarilla was the first one-act narrative ballet created for Pavlova and her company and was first performed on June 5th 1912. The plot drew upon the ballets of Giselle and Esmeralda. The ballet was arranged by Piotr Zajlich, although it was later credited at Ivan Clustine, to the music of Alexander Glazounov. Riccardo Drigo and Alexander Dargomyzhsky. The ballet was designed by French artist Georges Barbier. The ballet was then reworked in 1920 with updated designs. Amarilla remained in the Company’s repertoire until Pavlova's death.

Notes by Caroline Hamilton