Dress, court dress

Designed by Hartnell for Lady Jowitt when presented at Court following her husband's appointment as Attorney General. Court Presentations were stopped during the First World War but recommenced in 1921. The occasion required gowns which were glamorous but conformed to court dress regulations. In this stunning silk and gauze gown, Hartnell has used beads and embroidery to create an effect of winter snow. At court it would have been worn with a train and a feather headdress. Hartnell's reputation as a society couturier developed through the 1920s and in 1935 he was asked to design for a member of the royal family. He made the wedding dress for Lady Alice Montagu-Douglas-Scott for her marriage to the Duke of Gloucester, and in due course he became a much favoured dressmaker to Queen Mary, the Queen Mother, and Her Majesty Queen Elizabeth II. His crowning achievement was to design the Queen's coronation dress in 1953.

Dress worn at court presentation. Full length. Beige silk gauze with beaded embroidery. The silk gauze is mounted on a fine beige silk net and cut away in scallops over the lower skirt revealing deep flounce of silk net at the hem. Cut with narrow shoulder straps, the low neckline squared off at front, and scooped to reveal back. Two darts under each bust. Integral underdress of beige silk satin with scalloped hem and three layers of beige silk net and one of beige chiffon forming flounces. Underdress attached at neckline and arms scye with sections of silk net. Fastening at left hand side seam with seven press studs and eight hooks and eyes. Embroidered with white cube shape beads in 'vermicelli' arrangement and round diamante beads in metal settings in abstract 'snowflake' shapes, densely at the top of the bodice, and decreasing towards hem. Woven label reading 'Norman Hartnell / 10 Bruton Street W.' and 'COURT DRESS / 1930' hand written in ink at inside right hand side underarm where underdress drawn into vertical tuck.