Jacket

Brown wool jacket with white Keith Haring print, designed by Malcolm McLaren and Vivienne Westwood for World's End "Witches" collection (1983). The skirt was worn in the 1980s by the male clothes designer Dane Goulding, a cross-dresser. He commented: 'I really owe a huge debt to Miss/Mrs Westwood...I honestly never bought her clothes to look cute, I always felt as though I was commenting on a world I was really unhappy with.'

The jacket is an oversize, boxy, double breasted shape with winged shoulders. There are six brown plastic, horn effect buttons on the front, three each side. The jacket is lined with cotton which has been decorated with a brown marble effect pattern. Vivienne Westwood felt that Haring's work was like 'a magical, esoteric sign language'. The style, which first appeared in Westwood's Buffalo collection (Autumn/Winter 1982-83) was called 'Chico' after the film actor Chico Marx.

In the "Witches" collection Westwood explored the physical interaction between clothes and the body combining tight, body-hugging garments with oversize styles that encased the body but easily slipped off it. For Westwood adjusting and rearranging clothing can be provocative and exotic. It draws attention to the body and anticipates the act of undressing. The shape is similar to a jacket designed by performance artist Leigh Bowery and may have been influenced by him.