Dame de qualité en habit d'Este

A print of a woman described as 'Dame de qualité en habit d'Este' (A lady of high rank in summer dress), inscribed. N. Arnoult fecit. 1682, with the address, 'à Paris Chez N. Arnoult rue de la Fromagerie à l'image Saint Claude aux Halles. Another, hand-coloured, version of this print appeared in Recueil des modes de la cour de France, a book published around 1682-1684, which portrays the fashion of the nobility at the court of Louis XIV.

A woman wearing a mantua, holding a vizard mask, which could be worn on her face with the help of a small button on the inside (which would be held by the lips), and a fan made from feathers. On her face are several patches: fashionable but fake beauty marks that could be used on the face to hide deficiencies. These patches could take a variety of forms, from circles and stars to castles and ships. On her head she is wearing a commode, a structure of wires that was covered by lace and ribbons.

The print was made by Nicolas Arnoult (France, circa 1671-1700). About 150 prints designed by him are known today.

Other copies of this print are held in Los Angeles County Museum of Art Collections. Lacma.org

Further reading
Colas, R., Bibliographie générale du Costume et de la Mode. Description des suites, recueils, séries, revues et livres Français et étrangers relatifs au costume civil, militaire et religieux, aux modes, aux coiffures et aux divers accessoires de l’habillement, avec une table méthodique et un index alphabétique, Paris 1933, pp. 130-132; entry 379.

Ribeiro, A., Fashion and Fiction. Dress in Art and Literature in Stuart England, London 2005.