Dame en deshabillé du matin

A partially coloured print of a woman, described as, 'Dame en deshabillé du matin', inscribed I.D. St. Iean delin., with the address 'A Paris proche les grands Augustins aux deux globes. This print appeared in Recueil des modes de la cour de France (1684), which portrays the fashion of the nobility at the court of Louis XIV. The print is identical to print 2002.139/276, though coloured differently.

The woman is wearing morning dress with cape and apron with watch suspended from her waist.

The print was designed by Jean Dieu de Saint-Jean (1654-1695), to whom about 100 prints are attributed from the period 1678-1695. They mostly portray the dress of men and women of high rank, often at the court of France. His father, also named Jean Dieu, was a painter too. When his son was accepted to the Royal Academy of Painting and Sculpture in Paris he changed his name to Jean Dieu de Saint-Jean, after his patron saint, in order to distinguish himself from his father and from other artists named Dieu. Though De Saint-Jean initially was trained as a portrait painter he is mostly known for his fashion-plates.

Other copies of this print are held in Los Angeles County Museum of Art Collections. Lacma.org

Further reading
Colas, R., Bibliographie Générale du Costume et de la Mode. Description des suites, recueils, séries, revues et livres Français et étrangers relatifs au costume civil, militaire et religieux, aux modes, aux coiffures et aux divers accessoires de l’habillement, avec une table méthodique et un index alphabétique, Paris 1933, entry 2629.

Cummins, G.E. and N.D. Taunton, Chatelaines. Utility to Glorious Extravagance, Aberdeen 1994.

Ribeiro, A., Fashion and Fiction. Dress in Art and Literature in Stuart England, London 2005.

Vaast, C. and J. Dunford, 'Jean Dieu de Saint-Jean (1654-1695). Dessinateur de gravures des mode et peintre d’un portrait de Marin Marais', Musique Images Instruments vol. 10 (2008), pp. 172-181.