Jacket, denim jacket

Katherine Saunders (17 May 1967-11 December 1984) customised this Levi's denim jacket in about 1981 and wore it with skin-tight bleached denim jeans. She drew an image of a crucified skinhead on the back of the jacket and slogans relating to the Oi movement as well as the name of the Oi band, The Last Resort.

The Last Resort formed in 1980 around a shop of the same name selling skinhead clothing in Aldgate, East London. Oi bands were associated with extreme skinhead violence, football thuggery and often accused of racism. A Last Resort gig in the predominantly Asian area of Southall led to serious rioting in July 1981. Many skinheads wore denim jackets but the customisation of this jacket and the use of taboo symbols like the crucifix reveal the influence of punk.

Oi claimed to be an all purpose focus for working-class rebellion - ‘Oi ie uniting punks, skins and everyone’. It also attracted middle-class followers, such as Katherine, whose parents remembered her as 'a rebellious but loving spirit, often at war with herself. She was emerging from the desperation of anorexia when a fire cut short her promise as an artist and craftsman.'